Going to the Hukilau

cookbookFor the recent PTC Cookbook Club lunch, we ventured across the Pacific to the islands of Hawaii. Having grown up in Hawaii, I brought in a collection of my favorite islander cookbooks – weathered, spiral bound compilations I’ve garnered over the years – typically put together by an organization like a high school, the Hawaiian Electric Company, the Honolulu Advertiser newspaper or churches as a fundraiser.

The recipes represent the ‘best of the best’ family recipes from each organization – “Aunty Alice’s Ono Mac Salad” or “Da Best Kimchi Spam Musubi.” The population of Hawaii has long been a melting pot of cultures, and so the cuisine reflects this unusual mix of Chinese, Japanese, Korean, Filipino, Polynesian, American and native Hawaiian dishes.

Traditional native Hawaiian fare you’d find a luau includes kalua pig (whole pig slow-roasted in an underground oven), poi (taro mashed into a starch paste), lau lau (meat and fish wrapped in luau leaves), lomi lomi salmon (salted salmon mixed with tomato and onion), pipikaula (dried beef), poke (raw fish mixed with salt and seaweed) and haupia (coconut dessert).

For our islander lunch, we whipped up a mix of dishes:

Kalua Pig – Rather than fashioning an underground oven at Ocean Beach, I opted for the oven-roasted version of this smoky Hawaiian pulled-pork dish mixed with cabbage. After the pork shoulder is slow-cooked with seasonings, I shredded it and sauteed it with green cabbage. An easy, Hawaiian favorite, if you have 4-hours of cooking time.

Sweet & Sour Short Ribs – Bibby continued her quest for the ultimate short rib recipe with this basic Chinese version with sweet and sour glaze and cilantro. This recipe inspired a new addition to our Spring cooking party menus: Sweet and Spicy Braised Short Ribs with caramelized onions and spicy chipotle.

Chicken Luau – Crissy selected a hearty Hawaiian dish, traditionally made with luau leaves (she substituted spinach), coconut milk and chicken. Everyone liked the richness of the dish reminiscent of a cream of spinach.

Broiled Sushi – A popular dish at potluck parties in Hawaii, Rosie chose this cooked, roll-your-own take on sushi. A pan of sushi rice is topped with crab and dynamite sauce (mayo+siracha) before being poped into the broiler for a bubbly finish. We loved the simplicity of this preparation versus a time consuming roll.

Lomi Lomi Salmon – In Hawaiian, lomi lomi means to mix or massage. In this dish, I lomi’ed tomatoes and sweet onions with salty salmon and green onions. They say the complexity of flavor from this dish comes from the lomi lomi process.

Tofu Salad – A very simple home cook favorite. Drained firm tofu is topped with vegetables like watercress, tomato and onion and usually canned tuna or poached salmon. The dressing is a mix of garlic, soy sauce and sesame oil.

Macadamia Pineapple Rice Pilaf – I was a bit skeptical of this dish, since it incorporates cliche Hawaiian ingredients. It was, however, in one of my cookbooks, so it was fair game. I was pleasantly surprised by the flavor of Tanya’s choice, which was well-balanced with fluffy oven-baked rice, chunks of pineapple and nuts.

Mango Bread Pudding – Mango is a very popular (and coveted) fruit in Hawaii. It’s always nice to have an Aunty with a tree in her backyard! Mangoes are eaten ripe, or pickled when green or dried and enjoyed with li hing powder. Erin baked up mango into a decadent bread pudding drizzled with a warm caramel sauce.

Haupia – I couldn’t resist making a small pan of this coconut pudding. After all, what’s a luau without haupia! A simple mix of coconut milk and sugar thicked with cornstarch – it’s a cool, creamy, sweet treat that goes with any Hawaiian meal.

New Recipes for Spring

The stormy weather may not indicate it, but Spring officially arrives this weekend. Spring is an exciting time of year for us at Parties That Cook, when we get to invent new menus that incorporate freshly available Spring ingredients.

Chef Tanya

Yesterday, we took the day off for a Spring recipe testing session in the kitchen. Executive Chef Bibby Gignilliat formulates the recipes on paper beforehand, then gathers up the chefs to test them out live.

Taste is of the utmost importance, but our recipes also need to have clear directions and innovative culinary learning points for our guests.

Among the Spring recipes tested:

  • Mini Chalupas filled with Chorizo and Avocado
  • Scallop and Shrimp Ceviche Cups with Roasted Bell Pepper and Lime
  • Bacon-Wrapped Dried Plums with Melted Blue Cheese
  • Butter Lettuce with Cherries, Lardons and Tarragon Crème Fraîche Dressing
  • Rosemary and Pepper Dusted Filet Mignon with Shallot-Port Marmalade
  • Gruyere Cheese Soufflé
  • Sautéed Sesame-Garlic Asparagus and Sugar Snap Peas
  • Skirt Steaks with Ricotta Salata Salsa Verde

Our favorite recipe of the day was a delicate Miso-Mirin Glazed Black Cod, which we’ll be serving alongside the Sautéed Sesame-Garlic Asparagus and Sugar Snap Peas for an Asian-themed Chef’s Table menu.

Miso cod

Miso-Mirin Glazed Black Cod Recipe

Serves 8

1 cup mirin (sweet Japanese rice wine)
1/2 cup sake
2/3 cup white miso paste (fermented soybean paste)
1/4 cup sugar
½ teaspoon kosher salt
Eight 6- ounce skinless black cod fillets, about 1 inch thick, pin bones removed
Canola oil

Miso-Mirin Glaze: In a small saucepan, bring the mirin and sake to a boil. Whisk in the miso until dissolved. Add the sugar and salt and cook over moderate heat, whisking, just until dissolved. Transfer the marinade to a large baking dish and let cool. Add the fish and turn to coat. Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours or overnight. Alternatively, marinate in an instant marinator.

Sear-Roast:
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Heat a sauté pan and oil it. Scrape the marinade off the fish and reserve marinade. Pat fish dry with a paper towel. Sear the fish and cook over high heat until browned, about 2 minutes. Flip the fish onto a heavy rimmed sheet pan with browned side face up and roast for 8-10 minutes, until flaky. Cover sheet pan with foil to keep fish warm while making sauce.

Sauce:  Reduce reserved marinade for 2 minutes. Do not over reduce or it will get thin and grainy. Serve fish with a small spoonful of sauce.

Recipe created by Parties That Cook® www.PartiesThatCook.com.

-> Stay tuned for the release of all of Parties That Cook’s Spring menus in mid-March 2009.