Category News & Events

Cookbook Club Sunday Suppers At Lucques

Stout Cake and Ice Cream

A hungry horde of twelve sat down on Tuesday afternoon to a table teeming with platters of color creations from Suzanne Goin’s Sunday Suppers At Lucques.

An alumna of Chez Panisse and owner of acclaimed Lucques restaurant in LA, Goin subscribes to the Alice Water mantra of simple food and pure ingredients. Her recipes reflect an attention to seasonality with traditional French influences. Her cookbook is surprisingly not-so-simple for the basic home cook, but ideal for our crowd of chefs who know to read between the lines – the gaps within her recipes’ instructions.

The result… a winning lunch and one of our very favorite meetings of the Parties That Cook Cookbook Club. We were glad to have invited our friends from Brix 26, Crushpad and Allpointe to share in the spectacular spread:

Fava Bean Puree with Oil-Cured Olives, French Feta and Garlic Toasts – A bright and springy fava crostini, but the recipe called for so much olive oil that Bibby had to strain the bean puree to prevent an oil slick.

Swiss Chard Tart with Goat Cheese, Currants and Pine Nuts – We enjoyed this take on contorno, Sicilian cooked greens with pine nuts and currants. Bibby partially baked the puffed pastry with a sheet pan on it before adding the other ingredients to prevent the bottom from getting soggy.

Wild Salmon Salad with Beets, Potato, Egg and Mustard Vinaigrette – Everyone loved this hearty main course salad with slow roasted salmon coated in herbs. Like the crostini recipe, Crissy thought way too much olive oil was called for in the dijon vinaigrette.

Winter Squash Risotto with Radicchio and Parmesan – The inclusion of radicchio into this creamy risotto added a nice bite and texture. Rosie thought the directions were simple and straight forward, but did feel the recipe was heavy on salt.

Devil’s Chicken Thighs with Braised Leeks and Dijon Mustard – While tasty, Tanya did not think this take on Julia Child’s original recipe was worth time and effort involved. Everyone did fawn over the tasty braised leeks.

Boeuf a la Nicoise: Braised Beef Stew with Red Wine, Tomato, Olives and Buttered Noodles – For our extern Liz’s last PTC Cookbook Club, she skillfully stirred up this robust beef stew. We loved the salty and sweet dimension of the stew and lauded her use of wine garnered from a friend who had just vacationed in France.

Romesco Potatoes – Intimidated by this cooks’ cookbook, I chose the recipe with the fewest amount of ingredients (still 14 ingredients!). I enjoyed learning to make the spicy ancho chile romesco sauce and roasted then fried potatoes. Everyone agreed that it was a recipe worth making again.

Strawberry Gratin – For a sweet finish, Tanya composed a beautiful gratin of strawberries atop a creme fraiche custard. Simple and pure happiness in a dish! Original recipe called for raspberries, but really any fleshy seasonal fruit would work well.

Chocolate-Stout Cake with Guinness Ice Cream – Michelene thought the ice cream directions were very lacking to the point that an inexperienced cook would definitely fail. Luckily for us, Michelene is all business in the kitchen and made the dessert combo perfectly. We loved the dense chocolate cake and gingerbread-like flavor. The ice cream was also a unique treat distintively Guinness in its dark, sweet stouty flavor.

Next up, the 1-year anniversary of our PTC Cookbook Club! We will be exploring Heidi Swanson’s Super Natural Cooking.

Going to the Hukilau

cookbookFor the recent PTC Cookbook Club lunch, we ventured across the Pacific to the islands of Hawaii. Having grown up in Hawaii, I brought in a collection of my favorite islander cookbooks – weathered, spiral bound compilations I’ve garnered over the years – typically put together by an organization like a high school, the Hawaiian Electric Company, the Honolulu Advertiser newspaper or churches as a fundraiser.

The recipes represent the ‘best of the best’ family recipes from each organization – “Aunty Alice’s Ono Mac Salad” or “Da Best Kimchi Spam Musubi.” The population of Hawaii has long been a melting pot of cultures, and so the cuisine reflects this unusual mix of Chinese, Japanese, Korean, Filipino, Polynesian, American and native Hawaiian dishes.

Traditional native Hawaiian fare you’d find a luau includes kalua pig (whole pig slow-roasted in an underground oven), poi (taro mashed into a starch paste), lau lau (meat and fish wrapped in luau leaves), lomi lomi salmon (salted salmon mixed with tomato and onion), pipikaula (dried beef), poke (raw fish mixed with salt and seaweed) and haupia (coconut dessert).

For our islander lunch, we whipped up a mix of dishes:

Kalua Pig – Rather than fashioning an underground oven at Ocean Beach, I opted for the oven-roasted version of this smoky Hawaiian pulled-pork dish mixed with cabbage. After the pork shoulder is slow-cooked with seasonings, I shredded it and sauteed it with green cabbage. An easy, Hawaiian favorite, if you have 4-hours of cooking time.

Sweet & Sour Short Ribs – Bibby continued her quest for the ultimate short rib recipe with this basic Chinese version with sweet and sour glaze and cilantro. This recipe inspired a new addition to our Spring cooking party menus: Sweet and Spicy Braised Short Ribs with caramelized onions and spicy chipotle.

Chicken Luau – Crissy selected a hearty Hawaiian dish, traditionally made with luau leaves (she substituted spinach), coconut milk and chicken. Everyone liked the richness of the dish reminiscent of a cream of spinach.

Broiled Sushi – A popular dish at potluck parties in Hawaii, Rosie chose this cooked, roll-your-own take on sushi. A pan of sushi rice is topped with crab and dynamite sauce (mayo+siracha) before being poped into the broiler for a bubbly finish. We loved the simplicity of this preparation versus a time consuming roll.

Lomi Lomi Salmon – In Hawaiian, lomi lomi means to mix or massage. In this dish, I lomi’ed tomatoes and sweet onions with salty salmon and green onions. They say the complexity of flavor from this dish comes from the lomi lomi process.

Tofu Salad – A very simple home cook favorite. Drained firm tofu is topped with vegetables like watercress, tomato and onion and usually canned tuna or poached salmon. The dressing is a mix of garlic, soy sauce and sesame oil.

Macadamia Pineapple Rice Pilaf – I was a bit skeptical of this dish, since it incorporates cliche Hawaiian ingredients. It was, however, in one of my cookbooks, so it was fair game. I was pleasantly surprised by the flavor of Tanya’s choice, which was well-balanced with fluffy oven-baked rice, chunks of pineapple and nuts.

Mango Bread Pudding – Mango is a very popular (and coveted) fruit in Hawaii. It’s always nice to have an Aunty with a tree in her backyard! Mangoes are eaten ripe, or pickled when green or dried and enjoyed with li hing powder. Erin baked up mango into a decadent bread pudding drizzled with a warm caramel sauce.

Haupia – I couldn’t resist making a small pan of this coconut pudding. After all, what’s a luau without haupia! A simple mix of coconut milk and sugar thicked with cornstarch – it’s a cool, creamy, sweet treat that goes with any Hawaiian meal.